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El Bulli is closing: now let's cut the bull

Sunday, July 31, 2011


The world does not end. But for a small segment of culinary experts, something bad will happen virtually. Can not El Bulli, Ferran Adrià Catalan small restaurant, known for his meals and more than 30 tables to find doors closed tonight. Even here, in Britain in the distance, striking lamentation that was little more than Turner's heartbreaking Holbein the land and Christie.

I have strong feelings about the closure of El Bulli. Two, to be exact. First, it's a pity I will not eat. The second sense of relief. If the closure marks the end of exaggeration there, adoring prose made the world a safer place of or read the restaurant review.

I have nothing against El Bulli. In fact, I have nothing but admiration for the imaginative experimental cooking going on there, mostly molecular gastronomy, but cocina del Vanguardia in the corner of Catalonia. Just avoid the problem for you, El Bulli is famous for the food sounds very strange. Gorgonzola ball, air wand, pink ham with watermelon and ravioli. The dishes are deconstructed, constructed in the same parts of the hard science fantasy and magic.

El Bulli is clear (or was) a great place. Some friends and colleagues, eating, and everyone says that the flower has been extraordinary. In addition, there are surprisingly inexpensive wine list, which is always warm my heart. Clearly, a large restaurant, unique world of the African Union, and certainly never be duplicated.

But I'm just sick of worship apology final price. Colman Andrews is a book called the president to reinvent Food: Ferran Adrià: The man who changed the way we eat, and both the title and the sub-order to the sometimes unreasonable demands at the restaurant El Bulli Great. Which refers to "we" to the title? Certainly not the guy behind me in line at Aldi. There, the chefs who worked there, or see Adrià rhino-sized book, she took lessons and use them in their own restaurants - often with success. Today I ate a sublime dish grilled rabbit on the London market, which is a "salt foam" would not have been sure if El Bulli foam that was not all this year.

But people come, we are talking about a kind of cooking would be available 0.1% of the restaurants around the world. This type of cooking requires investment in equipment and industrial concentration in the kitchen - a 40-50 El Bulli chefs who eat to live - that most restaurants just can not imagine.

Furthermore, if El Bulli methods in the wrong hands pass, we are in a crisis. An American chef Ming Tsai cook, Exponent of beautiful form of fusion cuisine and a fan of El Bulli, warns against the dangers of using their own methods for Adria. "You should not do it, but as you can on the foam foam foam. Not bad, so it should be."

What I really dislike the hype about El Bulli posted mucus, a unique component of food writing. In a commentary published in Slate brilliantly excoriating named Noreen Malone subdivision IAAEB - I ate at El Bulli restaurant. And too much. If you taste in the genre attach multimedia enthusiast, check out this version of the cartoon videos taken by the board.

Rene Redzepi Noma in Copenhagen, now officially, finally and scientifically proven the best in the world, is quoted, and said. "Ferran and his staff have the freedom of cooking helped me free" Sorry, the chief executive. Freedom fighters of the people for the free movement of the foot. Leaders to prepare dinner for strangers. Now that El Bulli, we can again feel comfortable with the idea.

Maybe I'm just cynical. Ferran Adrià is a true food for a revolutionary change forever. Have you noticed that you usually eat at El Bulli, and 15 years ago? Would you go? Were you there? I think the burden of the molecular Talk Shit? Come on, throw in my gorgonzola.

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